The phases of the setting sun
After seeing the sun peeking through overgrown trees and not being able to see much, I moved around a bit and found a spot where you had a good view - the space between the trees was wide and the misty haze surrounding the distant hills and forest was like something out of a children's fairy tale.
Above: Sunset at Phnom Bakheng
Rather than post up seven different photos. I've made them into a collage which not only takes less space but also makes it easier to see the different stages. I haven't numbered them as this would detract from the pictures, they are from the top row going from left to right - 3, 5, 1, 7, 6, 4, and 2.
At the beginning the sky was a light pink with a touch of blue which deepened to a darker shade of pink with a purpley mauve. As the sun sank lower this changed to a pale apricot, with shades of light yellow deepening to a fiery golden orange. I long for the day when I can afford a really good camera which captures the bright orange ball which is the sun and show the brilliant fiery colours I saw.
Above: Elephant riding
As people started leaving, I looked around for my elephant - where were they? Walking along to the right I saw a sign and turning left went towards them. Showing my ticket I was led to "my" elephant. She is a female, aged 42 years old and her name is Tao.
Remember the children's song we used to sing?
Heidi, Heidi, Ho,
The great big elephant is so slow,
She swings her trunk from side to side
As she takes the children for a ride.
Heidi, Heidi, Ho,
The elephant is so slow!
Above: Coming down the mountain
One of the things I really, really wanted to do was ride an elephant, I've ridden Harleys and camels, and an elephant was a "must do" - well for me it was. Now, you might think that sitting on top of an elephant like a British Memsahib from days of yore in colonial times, gently swaying from side to side while you look down and around you from your wondrous height would have you feeling like some Duchess, n'est-ce pas? - but think again.
A 1200 - 1400 pound (that's 545 - 635 kg) elephant plodding along a flat path is one thing, but a 1400 pounder going down a very steep hill/mountain is an experience to remember! With every heavy step thumping down, I was at a forward angle and each time we moved I found me rear end slid forwards - almost off the seat. How embarrassing if I should go zoom, woosh, splat! With arms out-stretched, I held onto the wooden sides. It felt like my arms were coming out of their sockets some of the time - but Oh! It was a wonderful experience, and yes, I'd do it all over again given the chance.
There were wonderful views coming down that hill, trees so close I could have touched them (well I could have were it not for me arms hangin' on for dear life to the wooden sides of me elephant basket) - through the trees I could see Angkor Wat. First it had greenery around it, then later as night drew in it was dark blue and grey - as you can see in the collage above.
Tip
Make sure you wear cotton clothes - don't wear shiny, silky pants - they don't have very good grip!☺
Above: The "Book" Salesman again!
Remember how I said in the previous post (No. 51) that the local people have memories like an elephant, and I'd explain later? Yes, well...
When we reached the bottom, I thanked my driver and looked around me - there were people everywhere, and the "book boy" rushed towards me wanting me to buy books, and the lady I called in my mind "The Scarf Lady" - both of them were jabbering (in English) for me to buy this scarf, buy this book - "You said you'd buy this when you came back and I waited for you. You say you buy, I wait for you now you buy." Oh mama mia - this was when the rule of "Never say maybe later" hit me. To us, it means just that, but this boy (and the woman) thought I meant I would definitely buy later. Well, I like to think that's what they thought and not that they deliberately misunderstood on purpose - if you know what I mean. (Sigh).
Well, anyway, as much as I didn't want to buy a scarf - I didn't like the ones she had anyway, and I really didn't want to buy something straight away, they sort of made me feel obligated to buy something. The young lad wanted US$25 for one book and $15 for another one - he had an assortment of them. I told him I'd think about it and perhaps tomorrow. His reply? "But tomorrow I go to school"
Hmm....he kept asking $25, I kept saying no, he offered $20, I shook my head, the scarf woman was on the other side buy my scarf, buy my scarf - I flipped through the pages of two books, he offered two for $15, I said no, (I didn't like one of them) so....I looked him straight in the eye and said, "I'll give you $10 for that book" Then it was buy both for $15, etc etc etc, but I'd offered ten - after both of us dancing around and skirting the issue of "two for $15" and "$10 for that one" he looked at the woman who nodded her head slightly, and it was then I realised she must have been his mother.
During all this exchange, I spoke softly and smiled as I spoke. Even if you've been accosted and asked for the 500th time if you want to buy a bottle of water (or whatever else it is), don't raise your voice and show your annoyance, you'll lose all respect and the people won't think very much of you. Just smile, shake your head and above all - be polite.
Above: The way back
After having had my first exchange at "bargaining" I climbed into my tuk tuk and we were off. The night air was pleasantly cool with the breeze fanning my face and it was quite dark. This was my view - or one of them. The back of my driver as we motored through the countryside the sounds of night around us.
Malaysia Time
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Malaysia and Cambodia
Hello,
This is about my upcoming trip to Malaysia and Cambodia. The first part is pre-trip - information about flights, itineraries, accommodation and all the things that you need to do to plan an overseas holiday. This is my first trip to Asia and I hope it may help others. Comments are very welcome and anyone who has travelled to Malaysia and/or Cambodia, please feel free to comment and offer any advice or tips that you think would be helpful. As of today ( 28th February) , in exactly 11 days (minus 30 minutes) I will be in Kuala Lumpur.
Cheers.
I had the most amazing time and hope you enjoy reading about my trip. Each post is numbered and I'm doing them in order from start to finish - a little like a diary.
ANGKOR WAT SUNRISE
This is about my upcoming trip to Malaysia and Cambodia. The first part is pre-trip - information about flights, itineraries, accommodation and all the things that you need to do to plan an overseas holiday. This is my first trip to Asia and I hope it may help others. Comments are very welcome and anyone who has travelled to Malaysia and/or Cambodia, please feel free to comment and offer any advice or tips that you think would be helpful. As of today ( 28th February) , in exactly 11 days (minus 30 minutes) I will be in Kuala Lumpur.
Cheers.
I had the most amazing time and hope you enjoy reading about my trip. Each post is numbered and I'm doing them in order from start to finish - a little like a diary.
Showing posts with label H Phnom Bakheng. Show all posts
Showing posts with label H Phnom Bakheng. Show all posts
Friday
51. Temples - Phnom Bakheng
Having set my alarm clock to make sure I didn'g oversleep, I woke feeling refreshed and ready for my main reason for going to Siem Reap - the ancient temples of Angkor Wat. Fortifying myself with cups of tea, my driver was waiting for me and we set off around 4.30pm. (Da said if you leave at 4 o'clock, they will stamp your pass for today) and we arrived at the first check point - buying the temple pass.
Above: Buying your temple pass
As you can see, there are many people all waiting to get their pass. You stand in line, (pushing and shoving were not the order of the day - people were polite) when it's your turn you give your name, "Smile" for the camera, hand over your Oxford scholars and stand to the side until they call your name. And Voila! Temple Pass and you're ready to start. Back in the tuk tuk, there were many ahead of us - but my driver was shifty - he neatly drove his trusty steed to the left, puhed in between two large vehicles whizzed along the small space and we were through. Michael Schummaker eat your heart out!
Above: First glimpse
Travelling along you go up this long avenue with trees on either side. At various intervals are policeman, some in pairs, some by themself with their motor bikes, I noticed them because they seemed to be spaced less than a km apart. I wondered why there were so many, but it was comforting to know they were there - I don't think there'd be too many would-be baddies around.
At the end of the avenue, we turned left and the river was on our right. We did another right hand turn and the first sight of Angkor Wat came into view. It was exciting seeing this and I gawked like any good tourist does, camera at the ready, eyes as big as saucers.☺
I thought we were stopping here but my driver had other ideas. I did ask if he would stop so I could take a few photos.
At Phnom Bakheng
We travelled further on and on asking where we were going, he replied, "Phnom Bakheng". I said I'd like to ride an elephant. When we arrived there were lots of people, and Pookeah took me over to where the elephant people were. I wanted to ride the elephant up as well as down. It's $20 going up and $15 coming down. Alas there were no elephants available going up, but I did book one for the return journey.
Sellers and Hawkers
After this, I was assailed by hoards of people all wanting me to "Buy this lady". Despite saying, "No thank you" repeatedly, and not wanting to appear rude, I gave the time honoured answer, " I'll think about it, maybe later." The boy (and a woman) then said, "You buy later" to which I replied I didn't know, maybe, I don't know - BIG mistake. The first rule when dealing with the local people wanting to sell you stuff - never, never, never, say "I'll think about it" or "Maybe later". Whereas we take that as neither yes or no, but generally meaning you aren't interested and you don't want to, it's a pretty firm guess that "maybe later" means no.
Not with the local people. They have memories like an elephant, as I'll explain later.
Above: The "Book" Salesman
This is the young lad who wanted me to buy books. He'd make a great used car salesman some day!
Walking up the hill
To get to Phnom Bakheng, other than by elephant, you have to hike up this very steep hill - up, up, up, panting and huffing and puffing (you realise just how unfit you are) - the path seemed to go on indefinitely. I can quite see why all the elephants going up the hill had been booked. Even in "normal" weather, that is, nice cool climates, it would be tough going - combine this with 40º or so - you'll get the picture. Every time I thought we were at the top there was another path around the "corner".
Finally we really did arrive at the top and oh - the sight of that temple with all those people sitting on the top and the sides of it. Waiting - what were they waiting for? I didn't know.
Phnom Bakheng
This was my first sight, I had approached from the right.
Phnom Bakheng is a Hindu temple and was built toward the end of the 9th cedntury and dedicated to Shiva during the reign of King Yasovarman (889-910 A.D.).
It is a popular tourist spot for sunset views of Angkor Wat - of course I didn't know this then and wondered what I was supposed to do. Why had my driver brought me here, was I meant to climb the steps of this temple, or look around at the ruins or something?
Above: Phnom Bakheng from the left
Walking around, this photo was taken from the left side. By dent of speaking with other people and asking questions, I gathered that the whole idea was to watch the sunset from here. I didn't know then that the idea was to actually climb up the temple, sit (or stand) at the top and from there view the sunset.
Above: Close-up
A close-up of the central "door". I didn't have time to go exploring, as the sun was sinking lower and I had finally found a good spot through the trees to see the sun going down for the day.
Did you know?
The view of the Angkor Wat from the top of Phnom Bakheng is featured in the movie Tomb Raider (when Lara Croft looks through the binoculars upon arriving in Cambodia).
Above: Buying your temple pass
As you can see, there are many people all waiting to get their pass. You stand in line, (pushing and shoving were not the order of the day - people were polite) when it's your turn you give your name, "Smile" for the camera, hand over your Oxford scholars and stand to the side until they call your name. And Voila! Temple Pass and you're ready to start. Back in the tuk tuk, there were many ahead of us - but my driver was shifty - he neatly drove his trusty steed to the left, puhed in between two large vehicles whizzed along the small space and we were through. Michael Schummaker eat your heart out!
Above: First glimpse
Travelling along you go up this long avenue with trees on either side. At various intervals are policeman, some in pairs, some by themself with their motor bikes, I noticed them because they seemed to be spaced less than a km apart. I wondered why there were so many, but it was comforting to know they were there - I don't think there'd be too many would-be baddies around.
At the end of the avenue, we turned left and the river was on our right. We did another right hand turn and the first sight of Angkor Wat came into view. It was exciting seeing this and I gawked like any good tourist does, camera at the ready, eyes as big as saucers.☺
I thought we were stopping here but my driver had other ideas. I did ask if he would stop so I could take a few photos.
At Phnom Bakheng
We travelled further on and on asking where we were going, he replied, "Phnom Bakheng". I said I'd like to ride an elephant. When we arrived there were lots of people, and Pookeah took me over to where the elephant people were. I wanted to ride the elephant up as well as down. It's $20 going up and $15 coming down. Alas there were no elephants available going up, but I did book one for the return journey.
Sellers and Hawkers
After this, I was assailed by hoards of people all wanting me to "Buy this lady". Despite saying, "No thank you" repeatedly, and not wanting to appear rude, I gave the time honoured answer, " I'll think about it, maybe later." The boy (and a woman) then said, "You buy later" to which I replied I didn't know, maybe, I don't know - BIG mistake. The first rule when dealing with the local people wanting to sell you stuff - never, never, never, say "I'll think about it" or "Maybe later". Whereas we take that as neither yes or no, but generally meaning you aren't interested and you don't want to, it's a pretty firm guess that "maybe later" means no.
Not with the local people. They have memories like an elephant, as I'll explain later.
Above: The "Book" Salesman
This is the young lad who wanted me to buy books. He'd make a great used car salesman some day!
Walking up the hill
To get to Phnom Bakheng, other than by elephant, you have to hike up this very steep hill - up, up, up, panting and huffing and puffing (you realise just how unfit you are) - the path seemed to go on indefinitely. I can quite see why all the elephants going up the hill had been booked. Even in "normal" weather, that is, nice cool climates, it would be tough going - combine this with 40º or so - you'll get the picture. Every time I thought we were at the top there was another path around the "corner".
Finally we really did arrive at the top and oh - the sight of that temple with all those people sitting on the top and the sides of it. Waiting - what were they waiting for? I didn't know.
Phnom Bakheng
This was my first sight, I had approached from the right.
Phnom Bakheng is a Hindu temple and was built toward the end of the 9th cedntury and dedicated to Shiva during the reign of King Yasovarman (889-910 A.D.).
It is a popular tourist spot for sunset views of Angkor Wat - of course I didn't know this then and wondered what I was supposed to do. Why had my driver brought me here, was I meant to climb the steps of this temple, or look around at the ruins or something?
Above: Phnom Bakheng from the left
Walking around, this photo was taken from the left side. By dent of speaking with other people and asking questions, I gathered that the whole idea was to watch the sunset from here. I didn't know then that the idea was to actually climb up the temple, sit (or stand) at the top and from there view the sunset.
Above: Close-up
A close-up of the central "door". I didn't have time to go exploring, as the sun was sinking lower and I had finally found a good spot through the trees to see the sun going down for the day.
Did you know?
The view of the Angkor Wat from the top of Phnom Bakheng is featured in the movie Tomb Raider (when Lara Croft looks through the binoculars upon arriving in Cambodia).
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